Yanesen (Yanaka/Nezu/Sendagi/Hongo)

Tokyo’s old downtown, also known as shitamachi, is a collection of neighborhoods that have managed to preserve their retro charm and traditional ambiance amidst the modernization and development of the city. One of the most popular areas in shitamachi is Yanesen, which encompasses the districts of Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi. This area is known for its friendly vibe, narrow byways full of small shops, bars, and restaurants, and its ability to transport visitors back in time to a more congenial and nostalgic era.

When Tokyoites want to escape the hustle and bustle of the city and experience life at a more leisurely pace, they often head to Yanesen and shitamachi. This part of Tokyo offers a unique glimpse into the city’s past, with its traditional architecture, traditional shops, and local eateries that serve hearty and delicious “no fuss” fare.

To get to Yanesen, visitors can take either the metro subway lines or japan Railways. The Metro Chiyoda Line will take you directly to Nezu or Sendagi stations, while the JR Yamanote Line stops at Sendagi. Once you arrive, you’ll find yourself immersed in the charm and character of Yanesen.

One of the best ways to experience shitamachi is through its food. The area is known for its hearty and satisfying dishes, such as menchi katsu, a deep-fried minced meat cutlet, and tendon, battered and deep-fried seafood and vegetables served on a bed of rice. These dishes can be found in abundance at Yanaka Ginza, a shopping arcade that is typical of shitamachi.

For coffee lovers, Yanesen is home to many traditional coffee shops known as kissaten, where you can enjoy lovingly brewed cups of coffee in a cozy and nostalgic atmosphere. These kissaten have been serving locals for generations and offer a unique glimpse into Tokyo’s coffee culture.

If you have a sweet tooth, Yanesen also has a number of cafes and Japanese sweet shops where you can indulge in local treats. One of the most popular sweets in the area is daifuku, which consists of sweet beans wrapped in soft mochi. Another unique sweet treat you can find in Yanesen is amezaiku, which is candy art. Skilled craftsmen heat up the candy and shape it into various objects, such as birds, cats, and even Godzilla. Amezaiku Yoshihara is a shop in Yanesen where you can witness this traditional craft and even purchase some candy art to take home.

Art enthusiasts should not miss a visit to SCAI The Bathhouse, an art gallery specializing in contemporary art. The gallery is housed in a bathhouse that has been reformed and has a history of more than 200 years. The unique setting of the gallery adds to the overall experience of viewing the artworks.

Another must-visit attraction in Yanesen is Nezu-jinja Shrine. This shrine is one of Tokyo’s oldest and is known for its tunnel of red torii gates, reminiscent of the famous Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine in Kyoto. The main shrine structures at Nezu-jinja are also remarkable, with their intricate designs and architecture that resemble those found in Nikko. A visit to Nezu-jinja Shrine offers a serene and peaceful experience, and the photos you take here will surely make you anticipate and appreciate the beauty of Kyoto and Nikko even more.

Yanesen and shitamachi offer a unique contrast to the modern and fast-paced Tokyo that we often associate with the city. These neighborhoods provide a glimpse into the city’s rich history and culture, with their retro ambiance and traditional charm. Whether you’re exploring the narrow alleys, savoring the local cuisine, or immersing yourself in the art and spirituality of the area, a visit to Yanesen and shitamachi is sure to be a memorable and enriching experience.

As with any travel plans, it is important to check for any updates or changes in the current situation. The information provided here is subject to change due to the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic. It is always recommended to stay updated with the latest guidelines and regulations before visiting any destination.

In conclusion, Yanesen and shitamachi offer a delightful escape from the modernity of Tokyo, transporting visitors back in time to a more congenial and nostalgic era. With its retro ambiance, narrow byways full of small shops, bars, and restaurants, and a plethora of cultural attractions, Yanesen and shitamachi provide a unique and enriching experience for those looking to explore Tokyo’s old downtown. From sampling hearty fare and indulging in sweet treats to immersing oneself in art and spirituality, a visit to Yanesen and shitamachi is sure to be a memorable and rewarding experience.

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Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo-to


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