Aoi Festival

See ancient Kyoto brought to life at the Aoi Matsuri

Introduction:
The Aoi Matsuri, also known as the Hollyhock Festival, is an annual event held in central Kyoto on May 15th. It is considered one of the three major festivals of Kyoto, alongside the Gion Matsuri and Jidai Matsuri. The festival offers a unique opportunity to experience the rich history and culture of Kyoto, as participants dress in ancient costumes and reenact traditional ceremonies. In this article, we will delve into the fascinating details of the Aoi Matsuri, from its origins to the grand procession and the role of the Saio, the festival’s central figure.

Origins of the Aoi Matsuri:
The Aoi Matsuri originated in the 7th century and is believed to have started as an appeal to the gods after a devastating storm destroyed the harvest. To appease the deities responsible for the destruction, the emperor made offerings at the Shimogamo and Kamigamo Shrines. Miraculously, the harvest was saved, and the festival became a way to express gratitude and ask for protection against natural disasters. Due to its association with these shrines, the festival is also known as the Kamo Matsuri.

The Grand Parade:
The highlight of the Aoi Matsuri is the grand procession, which consists of approximately 500 participants dressed in the elaborate aristocratic costumes of the Heian period (794-1185). The procession begins at the Imperial Palace and makes its way to the Shimogamo Shrine, where ceremonies are performed for two hours. Afterward, the procession continues to the Kamigamo Shrine. The entire route takes about one hour to complete.

The Saio: The Central Figure:
Each year, an unmarried woman is chosen to play the role of the Saio, the central figure of the festival. The Saio was once a royal who served as the high priestess of the Kamigamo and Shimogamo Shrines. The chosen woman must undergo purification rituals before the event and is carried on a palanquin. She wears a kimono consisting of 12 layers of silk, weighing a staggering 30 kilograms. The Saio represents the historical significance of the festival and adds an air of mystique to the event.

The Significance of Hollyhock Leaves:
Throughout the procession, participants adorn themselves with hollyhock leaves, which are a symbol of protection against natural disasters. The use of hollyhock leaves dates back to ancient times when they were believed to possess magical properties. By wearing these leaves, the participants invoke the blessings of the gods and seek their protection.

Accessibility and How to Get There:
The Aoi Matsuri takes place in central Kyoto and is easily accessible by public transportation. The Imperial Palace can be reached by bus from Kyoto Station, followed by a short walk. Kamigamo Shrine is accessible by taking the Karasuma Subway Line to Kitaoji Station and then walking for about two minutes to the Kitaoji bus stop. From there, take bus number three to Kamigamo Misonohashi bus stop, and it’s just a five-minute walk from there. To access Shimogamo Shrine, take the Keihan Line from Kyoto Station to Demachiyanagi Station, and it’s a 10-minute walk north from there.

The Best Seats for the Parade:
For those who prefer a more comfortable viewing experience, seats can be purchased along the parade route at the Imperial Palace and Shimogamo Shrine. These seats cost 2,500 yen and are available at convenience stores or travel agencies. However, it is advisable to arrive early as these seats tend to sell out quickly. Seats at Kamigamo Shrine are priced at either 1,000 yen or 5,000 yen, depending on the location, and can only be purchased at the shrine itself.

Conclusion:
The Aoi Matsuri is a captivating festival that brings ancient Kyoto to life. From the grand procession to the portrayal of the Saio, every aspect of the festival is steeped in history and tradition. It provides visitors with a unique opportunity to witness the rich cultural heritage of Kyoto and experience the customs and rituals of the Heian period. Whether you choose to watch the procession from the sidelines or secure a seat along the route, the Aoi Matsuri is an event that should not be missed. Immerse yourself in the enchanting atmosphere of ancient Kyoto and witness the vibrant traditions of the Aoi Matsuri.

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